Situated in the highlands of western Panama, Tierras Altas (literally, “High Lands”) features comparable scenery to neighboring Boquete—misty hillsides dense with greenery, gardens terraced into slopes, and abundant wildflowers. Its cool-weather climate and the outdoor lifestyle it affords are also similar…
But Tierras Altas is also very different to Boquete in important ways.
First, it’s affordable. Everything from the cost of real estate to the cost of a burger costs less here, while costs in Boquete are closer to those of a mid-size U.S. city. Second, Tierras Altas is relatively unknown, while Boquete is one of the most famous expat communities in the world. Third, Tierras Altas is authentic and down-to-earth, while some complain of the imported American culture that dominates Boquete.
Tierras Altas is a district in Chiriquí Province, on the east side of Volcán Barú, an inactive volcano. It’s made up of five townships: Volcán, Cerro Punta, Cuesta de
Piedra, Nueva California, and Paso Ancho. Each of these contains a dozen or more small mountain towns.
The region is situated at a higher altitude than Boquete and its climate is cooler, but these factors vary village to village. Expats choose which village is right for them based on which type of microclimate they prefer.
The towns and villages that make up the Tierras Altas region are stretched out along an asphalt road system. Volcán is the largest of them. It’s one hour (56 kms or 35 miles) from David, the provincial capital and closest big town, and nearly seven hours (490 kms or 304 miles) from Panama City.
Volcán has the lowest elevation in Tierras Altas, sitting at 1,400 meters (4,617 feet) above sea level.
Guadalupe, my favorite destination, is one of the last towns on the road and is situated at 2,255 meters (7,398 feet) above sea level.
The cool climate and produce—especially strawberries—make Tierras Altas famous. Here nearly everything grows… citrus, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, carrots, and of course, strawberries… in addition to the lowland crops such as bananas.
There are small businesses along the roads offering hot chocolate, coffee, and everything strawberry… shortcake, milkshakes, popsicles, strawberries with cream… you name it, they’ve got it.
As a “crazy plant lady” myself, I love this area for the variety of plants, flowers, and succulents that adorn every other house—at least in Guadalupe.
From citrus to roses and orchids, Tierras Altas has it all… There are lots of gardens to tour here including Finca Dracula whose orchid collection is the third largest in the world.
Volcán is the hub of Tierras Altas. Just 30 minutes from Guadalupe and an even shorter drive from Alto Bambito, Paso Ancho, and the other small towns that expats favor, most of your day-to-day needs can be met in Volcán.
The expat population is sprinkled throughout several small mountain communities in the Tierras Altas area. The majority live close to Volcán where it’s warmer and sunnier.
Guadalupe is home to a dozen or so expats from both North America and Europe, as well as Panamanians of European descent. In Cerro Punta, there are foreigners who live both part-time and year-round.
In the past, Tierras Altas was home to mostly people of retirement age, but younger families have started relocating to the area.
There are about 1,000 expats living in Tierras Altas, the majority of whom are North Americans. That said, it’s becoming a popular destination for immigrants from South Africa, too.
Social activities tend to be low-key… a few friends or couples playing cards, going on a walk, small dinner parties, or meals out together. The Wandering Sloth Bar and Grill in Paso Ancho is a great hangout. A drive up the hill to Guadalupe or a trip to the national parks are wonderful half-day adventures.
Bird watching and the national parks bring people from all around the world to this area.
Volcán Barú National Park is located here, and at 3,475 meters (11,400 feet) above sea level, it’s the highest point in the country. There are seven different craters visible from trails within the park, including the Quetzal Trail which joins Cerro Punta and Boquete.
The picturesque town of Las Nubes is the gateway to International Park La Amistad (the friendship), which is shared with Costa Rica. La Amistad was established in 1988 and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990.
The 407,000 hectares of forest protect five species of cats: ocelot, puma, jaguar, jaguarundi, and margay. The endangered Baird’s tapir can be found here and about 600 species of birds. Searching for the resplendent, elusive, and endangered quetzal bird mid-February through July (during their mating season) is one of the main attractions to Tierras Altas.
Four indigenous groups live within the park: Naso, Bribri, Ngöbe, and Buglé. They live traditional lifestyles in small communities.
There’s a friendly small town feel everywhere you go, and life moves at a slower, more relaxed pace. There’s still little development overall, which means plenty of room for opportunity.
Tierras Altas has the potential to be the next Boquete. There’s room to grow here, and hopefully this will be done in a responsible way.
If you’ve been to Boquete, you know there isn’t much room for growth, and for a small town, traffic is an issue. Tierras Altas has the same cool climate and is cheaper, plus some residents claim the people are more relaxed and down-to-earth.
Boquete has a reputation for being cliquey and more concerned with social status. The Tierras Altas folks I spoke with are not worried about appearances and were more focused on their quality of life.
Who is Tierras Altas for? Nature lovers, birders, gardeners, hikers, tinkerers (those who can stay busy with hobbies and projects), relaxed, every-day, down-to-earth people.
Who need not apply? City folks. If you’re used to large social circles and events, like to get dressed up, night life, and fine dining, you’ll be disappointed here.
Sincerely,
Michelle Miller Shogren
Contributor, Panama Letter
