Why Americans Keep Moving To Ambergris Caye, Belize

Intro

Hello. My name is Kat Kalashian for Live and Invest Overseas. Today we are here talking about life on Ambergris Caye in Belize.

This is one of the Caribbean’s most talked-about expat havens. It has been a long-running favorite for decades and decades now. You hear a lot of things about this Shangri-La and how paradisiacal it is. It’s so perfect—just beaches and blue skies every day.

But we all know that’s not the reality. What is it like to actually live in one of these places? Not for a week, not for a weekend, but full-time.

Today I have with me Rachel Jensen. Thank you for joining us today. She has been living and working on Ambergris Caye for about 14 years now.

It feels like a lifetime ago. But it’s safe to say you are an insider. You have an excellent insider perspective and lots of tips and insights to share with listeners who might be Belize-curious.

So tell us just a little bit about yourself. What brought you to Belize?

What brought you to Belize?

Of course. My first time in Belize was in 2012, and I was working with a real estate developer based in Nicaragua.

It was really supposed to be a three-month internship with the real estate developer. I was there, decided to stay with the company long-term, and a couple of months after that three-month period ended, they sent me to Belize.

They were having an event in Belize and said, “We need some help. If you don’t mind, just go down.”

I had never even heard of Belize in 2012. So I pulled up Google, typed in “Belize Ambergris Caye,” went to images, and thought, “Oh, this looks beautiful. I could do this.”

I was looking at pictures of the hotel where I was going to stay, which was really fairly rundown, but the pictures made it look stunning.

So I got there and I just loved it. It felt easy.

When you think about going to a Caribbean destination where everyone speaks English, there are palm trees everywhere, and you get around by golf cart, it just felt easy.

Everyone was so friendly, and that was something that really stuck with me.

When I went back to Nicaragua, where I was living full-time, I kept thinking about Belize. The company continued talking about needing somebody there on the ground, and finally I raised my hand and said, “If you really need somebody, I’ll do it. I’ll bite the bullet. I’ll move to Belize.”

Ultimately, it became home, and it has been home since 2012.

A lot of it, I think, has to do with the people who are here. It’s really about the community you build when you’re in another destination, in another country. The people here have been truly incredible.

I’m from New York originally, and Belize is a world apart from New York. Total opposite.

Everything that you think is normal about living in New York—the fast pace, the crazy work hours, everything—was just the complete opposite here.

I remember that 2012 was a very different time on the island. Internet was very unstable. We didn’t have Skype. WhatsApp didn’t exist at that point.

A majority of the expats who lived here were retirees who truly were disconnected from life in the States. Maybe they called their family every now and again to check in, but international calls were expensive, so they weren’t doing it constantly.

They were really just enjoying life here.

My introduction to Belize was integrating with the older expat community and with the locals. This is a place where everybody coexists and hangs out together.

I think that was one of the things that really stuck with me—how easy it felt to integrate and have a community around me.

Where I was living before, I felt much more isolated in Nicaragua. Some of it may have been due to language. I knew Spanish, but there was something that was just so different about me and the Nicaraguan culture.

It was pretty neat to come here and feel like I could get involved with things. I could start clubs, join the ladies for book club if I wanted to, do Rotary, do Lions Club, and really have a life versus just living in another country.

I think that was a big reason for staying here.

What is retirement really like on Ambergris Caye?

You know, I can tell you it can be 5:00 every single day if you want it to be.

I think that’s the beautiful part about life here in Belize—you can truly make it what you want it to be.

If your dream is to wake up with a margarita in hand and go to bed with a margarita in hand, you can absolutely do that. Nobody is judging you.

If you want to have a more active life, if you want to be diving in the morning, catching up with friends for lunch in the afternoon, and playing pickleball at sunset, you can absolutely be doing that too.

The beautiful part about this country is that it’s small. Belize has a population of about 400,000 people. On Ambergris Caye, we’re at about 30,000 people.

Ambergris Caye is one of the biggest expat destinations in the country.

If there’s something that’s not currently here, or if you have a hobby or interest that isn’t actively practiced, you can start it up. I’m sure you’ll find people to join.

We recently had a woman opening a Pilates studio because there weren’t any Pilates studios here. She got trained and is now in the process of building one.

Things like that are absolutely possible.

If you’re an entrepreneur, this can be your haven. If you’re not an entrepreneur, you’ll still find plenty of things to do.

It’s really what you want it to be and how you envision your retirement.

However, I absolutely recommend finding activities, finding things to do, and finding friends.

Meeting people here is one of the easiest things to do.

Life happens on Facebook in Belize. It’s the funniest thing.

I’m not really a social media person. I have it for business. But life happens in these Facebook groups.

There’s the Ambergris Expats page. There’s a page for people who play pickleball, another for tennis, another for diving, and another for hiking.

If you want that active lifestyle, getting involved in those groups is absolutely something you should do.

I know a handful of retirees who moved down with the intention of retiring. After a year of enjoying beach life, they’re now twiddling their thumbs in a hammock looking for something to do.

One of our clients has been here about a year and a half. He and his wife started a project management company and a home inspection company because there were only two inspectors on the island and they were busy all the time.

For him, it wasn’t about getting rich or making tons of money.

He said, “I just want to cover my beer tab.”

So you can do that too. You can dabble in something, stay active, and build a little project around your interests.

What’s the biggest adjustment for North Americans moving to Belize?

Entirely, it’s going slow. It’s putting the brakes on and saying, “All right, let me just slow down.”

We see this all the time. People come in so excited, and it’s great to have that excitement. Just make sure you’re able to maintain it over the next year as you settle in and get things accomplished.

It’s going to take time. Even buying property here takes time.

We had a fellow who recently purchased land, and before he even closed on the property, he was saying, “All right, introduce me to the architect.”

So we introduced him to three. Two took three, four, or five days to respond. The other one was really responsive initially but then disappeared for about a week.

He was from Eastern Europe originally and kept saying, “I need this now.”

I told him, “No, you don’t need this now. What you need to do is calm down and be patient.”

You haven’t even closed on the property yet. You don’t have documentation proving ownership. There’s not much anyone can do at this stage.

Things will all fall into place, but they take time.

That mental reset is important. Follow-up is essential in Belize.

You can submit plans, title paperwork, or residency paperwork, but you have to be diligent about checking in.

Even with my own architect, I’m messaging every few days just to follow up. That’s simply how things work here.

I think that’s a good reality check for people relocating to the Caribbean full-time.

What’s the biggest sticker shock for new expats in Belize?

Imported items.

That’s true throughout Belize, but because we live on the cayes, anything imported into the country has to be shipped out to the islands as well.

As a result, imported goods on Ambergris Caye are usually more expensive than they are on the mainland.

At the same time, we have the most variety here because Ambergris Caye is the country’s largest tourism and expat destination.

My mom was visiting recently, and my son loves pretzels. The only pretzels she could find were in a large plastic tub.

That tub cost 66 Belize dollars, which is about 33 U.S. dollars.

I told her she didn’t need to buy that. She said she liked the screw-top container because she could reuse it later.

Still, that’s a very expensive snack.

Afterward, she looked at her grocery bill and couldn’t believe how much she had spent.

Imported drinks can be the same way. White Claw, for example, might cost three or four dollars per can. There’s no discount for buying a full pack.

Anything imported is going to cost more.

However, day-to-day living can still be substantially less expensive than in the United States.

If you learn to live locally and buy local products instead of imported brands, you’ll save a lot of money.

A bag of imported Doritos might cost eight U.S. dollars, while a local equivalent costs around two dollars.

A lot of it is simply learning where to shop and getting to know the shop owners.

Once they know you, they may even start giving you random discounts.

But imported goods will almost always come with a hefty price tag.

That includes things like peanut butter, imported wine, and imported alcohol.

It definitely pays to drink local.

What does it cost to retire on Ambergris Caye?

There are two major factors in answering that question.

First, do you own your property? If you do, you’re not paying monthly rent.

Second, do you own your transportation? On Ambergris Caye, that usually means a golf cart.

If you own both your home and your golf cart, I’d say a retired couple could live comfortably on about $2,500 to $4,000 U.S. per month.

That budget gives you flexibility. You can go diving once a week, eat out a few times, and generally enjoy life on the island.

You can certainly spend more if you choose to live like a tourist and dine at the more expensive restaurants regularly.

Many expats save those outings for special occasions because they know where to find great local meals at very affordable prices.

If you’re renting, a one-bedroom rental is typically around $900 to $1,000 U.S. per month.

A two-bedroom rental usually ranges from about $1,500 to $1,800 U.S. per month.

Transportation is another significant cost.

Golf carts are the primary mode of transportation on the island.

A long-term golf cart rental can run anywhere from $600 to $800 U.S. per month, depending on the season.

Golf cart owners will sometimes negotiate better rates if they know you, but transportation remains one of the larger expenses of island life.

For a long time, I rented my golf cart because whenever something broke, the rental company simply replaced it.

But after three or four years, I started doing the math and realized I could have bought several golf carts for what I had spent on rentals.

Eventually, owning became the better financial choice.

That said, golf carts require maintenance. Salt air causes corrosion, so regular cleaning and servicing are important.

It’s similar to owning a car. You have oil changes, upkeep, and repairs, but in the long run ownership can make a lot of sense.

What’s the biggest reason some expats leave Belize?

I think the biggest issue is bureaucracy.

Belize is a small country of around 400,000 people, and it’s very relationship-based.

If you’re coming in expecting everything to happen immediately, this place can drive you absolutely crazy.

Even preparing paperwork for residency or work permits can be frustrating.

You can submit every document they ask for, only to be told later that another document is needed.

Sometimes it wasn’t even listed on the original requirements.

That’s just part of the reality.

You need patience, and you need to be overprepared for anything involving government processes.

You also need to follow up consistently.

The people I’ve seen struggle most are those who can’t slow down and those who aren’t interested in building relationships with locals.

If you’re willing to adapt, things generally go much more smoothly.

Is Belize the right choice if you have ongoing health issues?

It depends on the person and on the specific health issues involved.

Healthcare in Belize is improving. It’s much better than it was ten years ago.

That said, it’s not the same as what you’ll find in larger medical hubs like Merida, Mexico, or in more developed countries.

Belize is a small country, and there are limited specialists available.

In some cases, there may only be one or two specialists serving the entire country.

For routine healthcare needs, most people do just fine.

If you have a heart attack, need emergency care, or are having a baby, those services are available.

For more specialized care, many people travel to Belize City.

Others choose to go to Merida, Mexico, which is known for excellent healthcare at a fraction of U.S. prices.

Many expats use Merida for major procedures or specialized treatments.

At the same time, there are people successfully managing serious conditions within Belize.

There are facilities that provide treatments such as radiation therapy, and many residents receive ongoing care in Belize City.

Ambergris Caye itself already has a private hospital and several clinics.

A public hospital is also under construction and expected to expand healthcare access on the island.

How worried should you be about hurricanes in Belize?

Luckily, we’re not in the primary hurricane belt. A lot of storms end up bypassing Belize and heading toward Cuba, Jamaica, Mexico, Texas, or Florida.

Because of that, we don’t experience the same volume of storms that some other Caribbean destinations do.

That said, we absolutely have seen destructive storms here, and it’s something people need to take seriously.

If you’re purchasing property, it’s important to look for homes that are built to hurricane standards.

Many properties along the coast have been standing and operating for decades because they were built properly and designed to withstand storms.

When buying coastal property, you want to make sure it’s built correctly, has hurricane shutters, and can be properly secured when needed.

The nice thing about hurricanes, if there is one, is that we usually know they’re coming.

You typically have several days to prepare.

I’ve been through a few situations where we knew a storm was approaching. You’d see plywood for sale everywhere as people prepared to board up their homes.

Everything gets secured. Curfews are often announced in advance, and residents know what to expect.

The community really comes together during those times.

A couple of years ago, around the Fourth of July, we had a storm that was projected to strengthen significantly.

Everyone was preparing. We boarded things up and relocated temporarily to a concrete condo in town that felt like a bunker.

We packed up our three dogs and our young baby and waited for the storm.

When morning came, there was nothing. No rain, no wind, nothing at all.

The storm ended up bypassing Belize and heading toward Mexico instead.

That’s why the key is simply being prepared. Understand that hurricanes are a possibility, have a plan, and make sure your property is built appropriately.

Best thing about living in Ambergris Caye?

Simplicity.

Biggest surprise about living in Belize?

How slow things are.

What is the best month of the year?

September.

It’s quieter because it’s considered part of the slower season. It is a little hotter, but it’s also Independence Day month, and everything feels like a festival.

Biggest frustration on the island?

How slow things can be.

Favorite local restaurant?

There’s a pupusa place on Middle Street. I don’t know the name, but it’s delicious.

What’s the best local secret on Ambergris Caye?

There’s an eco-museum up north that hasn’t really been publicized. I think it’s a neat little spot that more people should discover.

I’d also say the local food scene. A lot of visitors are hesitant to eat at small local restaurants and delis, but some of the best and most affordable food on the island can be found there.

What’s one thing you wish you’d known before moving to Ambergris Caye?

Honestly, I’m glad I didn’t know too much.

Some people fall into analysis paralysis and spend so much time researching that they convince themselves they know everything before they arrive.

I was okay with discovering Belize gradually. It was a slow crawl into life here.

For anyone considering a move, the biggest thing to understand is just how slowly things move.

That’s probably the biggest frustration newcomers experience, but once you accept it, life becomes much easier.

What’s your advice for someone considering a move to Belize?

Just do it.

The worst-case scenario is that it doesn’t work out and you move back home, or you try a different country.

Too many people get stuck in analysis paralysis.

I’ve spoken with people who first inquired about Belize real estate ten years ago and are only now taking action.

In the meantime, prices have risen and opportunities have changed.

One of the most common things I hear from expats is that they wish they had made the move sooner.

When asked what they would do differently, their answer is often the same: “I wish we’d done it sooner.”